May 10, 2006
Mexico 2006 - My Cultural Immersion Experiment
I had been to Mexico twice before, once many years ago in Manzanillo,
and more recently in 2003 in Puerto Vallarta. Essentially both of
these vacations were typical tourist experiences and ever since
I got the taste for real discovery, starting with my Cuba
trip last year, I have wanted to discover new places by immersing
myself, getting to know the locals, even studying the language to
really get a good feel for the country and its people.
Early this year I read an article in the Toronto Star's Travel
Section about Cuernavaca - "The City of Eternal Spring",
a city just 90 km south of Mexico City, on the main highway to Acapulco.
Cuernavaca is also one of the world's largest centres for Spanish
language learning - an attractive proposition. Something struck
a chord and I decided to make Cuernavaca the main destination of
my 18-day stay.
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La Catedral Metropolitana, Mexico City
My friend and co-worker Vanessa is originally from Mexico City
and she was planning to spend a week with her family anyway, so
the two of us arranged that I would join her and her family for
three days to explore the Mexican capital. From my first
impressions, to explorations of downtown including the Torre
Latinoamericana and the Monumento a la Revolución, and
the Zócalo and Mexico City's
astounding massive Cathedral to the city's wonderful urban park,
the Bosque de Chapultepec, Vanessa
worked out a 2-day whirlwind sightseeing program that was phenomenal.
It gave me a really great overview of the city. Together with her
family we also had a great dinner experience in the beautiful areas
of Coyoacán and San Angel.
I couldn't have had a better guide, local expert and bodyguard than
my friend Vanessa.
Upon my arrival in Cuernavaca I
got to know my first bed and breakfast hostess, Marta
Elena, who runs a wonderful B&B in town and who shared with
me her really interesting, even inspiring "riches to rags"
story. Then I embarked on my first day of studying Spanish at the
Ideal Language School and explored two local must-see places:
the Robert Brady Museum and the Jardín
Borda.
I expanded my local friendships during a dinner
with Marta Elena and Roxana, who was my second bed and breakfast
hostess. I became very close to both women, both of whom extended
wonderful hospitality to me. The next day Marta Elena and I went
on an interesting adventure excursion out of town to a river resort
called Las Estacas, upon which we
visited a complex of greenhouses growing beautiful orchids and in
the evening I made another new friend in a little cafe right opposite
Cuernavaca's cathedral.
Statue in front of the Palacio de Cortés, Cuernavaca
The next day Vanessa's cousin took my on another country excursion,
this time to Lake Tequesquitengo,
the largest lake in the State of Morelos. That outing was followed
up by a doctor's visit since I had injured my ankle. So I even got
a taste of the Mexican health care system...
Mexico as a close yet exotic destination (with great weather, I
might add) has long held a fascination for me and for many other
thousands of people. Cuernavaca has a large expatriate community
and is becoming a favourite retirement destination. To explore this
topic further I talked with Andie Grater
who is the President of the local Cuernavaca Newcomers Club, a social
club that also dedicates itself to philanthropic endeavours.
Andie is also a local B&B owner and shared with me her experiences
of culture shock and psychological adjustment related to living
in a new place. The next day she took me to a Newcomers
Club meeting that included an extremely interesting presentation
about human impact on our planet.
Chapel beside the Cathedral of Cuernavaca
Cuernavaca is also a centre with vibrant cultural activities and
I was present during the ribbon-cutting
ceremony for a photo exhibition featuring two South African
photographers who both documented the era of apartheid. Then it
was time for me to explore the Palacio
de Cortes, which also doubles as the Museo de Cuahnahuac, featuring
the history of Cuernavaca and an impressive mural by Diego Rivera.
The weekend had come and it was time for another excursion out
of town to beautiful Taxco - the city that
silver built. I had an opportunity to see the famous Palm
Sunday procession, Taxco is world renowned not just for its
handcrafted silver jewellery, but also for its unique Semana Santa
(Easter week) traditions.
The second full week had begun and I started my Spanish studies
at the Cetlalic Alternative
Language School. I also visited "Casa Vamos", a bed
& breakfast whose revenues are dedicated to a local non-profit
organization and I experienced an evening
with a very sad ending.
My most intense day in Cuernavaca
included language studies in the morning, three interviews (two
of whom were with local non-profit organizations who help impoverished
people in the local community) and a fascinating guided hike during
a local nature area during the afternoon and a dinner in a legendary
local restaurant.
The pyramid atop of the sacred Tepozteco Mountain
The next destination on my itinerary was the enchanted
village of Tepoztlán, just 17 km outside of Cuernavaca.
A local resident, an artist by the name of Annabella, took me under
her wings and showed me this beautiful magical town. Along the way
I even got to meet a former Miss Hollywood, now a local legend.
I also completed a strenuous climb to the top of the local Tepozteco
mountain to see the ancient pyramid located at the top, long thought
to be a centre of cosmic and spiritual energy.
Well, my last day of school had arrived and I capped the day off
with a visit to the popular Cuernavaca
Spring Fair. The next day I went on another excursion, again
to Taxco, to experience its world-famous and unique Good
Friday processions which include penitentes, people
who are repenting for their sins, dressed in black robes, disguised
by black hoods, and walking in shackles, carrying heavy bundles
of thorn stalks or flagellating themselves. For me this was a very
eerie experience.....
The famous Santa Prisca Cathedral in Taxco
My final day had come. I spent the morning in Taxco where I had
the incredible opportunity to interview
one of the participants of these processions and find out why
anyone would want to participate in rituals involving self-flagellation,
pain and suffering. It was fascinating learning more about this
truly unique tradition that is shrouded in secrecy. Then back in
Cuernavaca my good friend Marta Elena and I celebrated our last
evening together with a great meal in a beautiful local restaurant.
So, compared to my earlier trips to Mexico, this experience was
full of interactions with the locals and I really had a chance to
get some insight into life in Mexico. Most people know Mexico for
its resorts along the Caribbean and Pacific coasts, but the interior
of Mexico with its pre-Hispanic and colonial treasures and its diverse
landscapes is a phenomenal place for exploration.
Along the way I discovered many beautiful places, cities, villages,
nature areas, and I fell in love - with the diversity and the beauty
of these regions in the centre of Mexico, and with the people that
I met. Their friendliness, warmth, openness and hospitality were
truly astounding and I hope to be back soon.
Lily in front of Santa Prisca
Useful Books:
Related Articles:
Mexico 2006 - My cultural immersion
experiment
Hello from Mexico City - First impressions
Hello from Mexico City - A skyscraper,
a little horse and a government pawn shop
Hello from Mexico City - The Zócalo,
the Cathedral, a healing ritual and a university dedicated to a
16th century female poet
Hello from Mexico City - A relaxing
evening in Coyoacán
Hello from Mexico City - Exploring the
Paseo de la Reforma, de Bosque de Chapúltepec and a nice
evening in San Angel
Hello from Cuernavaca - Arrival and
first impressions
Hello from Cuernavaca - Getting to know
my B&B hostess Marta Elena: A true riches to rags story
Hello from Cuernavaca - My first day
learning Spanish and two local icons: the Robert Brady Museum and
the Jardín Borda
Hello from Cuernavaca - A lovely dinner
in a garden paradise
Hello from Cuernavaca - An excursion
to Las Estacas, checking out orchids and a meeting at El Cafecito
Hello from Cuernavaca - An excursion
to Lake Tequesquitengo and a visit to the doctor
Hello from Cuernavaca - A conversation
with Andie Grater, local B&B owner and President of the Newcomers
Club
Hello from Cuernavaca - A presentation
about ecology at the Newcomers Club Meeting
Hello from Cuernavaca - Opening of a
South African photo exhibition and a visit to the Palacio de Cortés
Hello from Taxco - The city that silver built
Hello from Taxco during Semana Santa - The
famous Palm Sunday Procession
Hello from Cuernavaca - A new language
school, visiting 'Casa Vamos' and an evening with a very sad ending
Hello from Cuernavaca - My most intense
day: more language studies, 3 interviews, a guided eco-hike and
dinner at the Marco Polo
Hello from Cuernavaca - A day outing
to the enchanting mythical village of Tepoztlan
Hello from Cuernavaca - My last day
of school and a visit to Cuernavaca's Spring Fair
Hello from Taxco - An eerie experience: Visiting
Taxco's famous Good Friday procession
Hello from Taxco and Cuernavaca - Interviewing
one of the penitentes and enjoying my last day in Mexico
Related Interviews:
Presenting:
Ruben Córtes from Morelos Trails - Local adventure sports
and cultural guided tour operator, expert on Morelos and Cuernavaca
Presenting: Pablo
Buitrón from Fundacion Comunidad, helping local
women empower themselves
Presenting: Jorge Torres from
the Cetlalic Alternative Language School - Learning Spanish with
cultural, social and political awareness
Presenting: Hermilo Brito
from the Ideal Language School - Making Spanish learning fun
Helpful links:
Mexico
Tourism Information
State
of Morelos Tourism Organization
Official
website of the City of Cuernavaca tourism
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