Etecsa Telecommunications Building, Downtown Havana, Thursday,
April 13, 2005, 3:32 pm
I really gotta hurry, I only have about 28 minutes left on my
Internet card so I am going to try to be brief here.
The last few days have been extremely interesting. I am not
a political expert, but in a city like Havana
you can´t help but be confronted with politics. Everywhere you
see billboards with political slogans, monuments of heroes that
were significant in Cuba´s
history, pictures of Che
Guevara and Fidel Castro, and the Cuban Revolution as well
as the present economic circumstances are omnipresent topics
of conversation.
Political slogans.
I have read a lot about Cuba and tried to talk to as many people
as possible and there are a few things that have crystallized
in my mind as general impressions of Cuba. Once again, these
are my personal impressions and they are definitely not based
on scientific fact, but nevertheless I will share them with
you.
Cubans are a fiercely proud and independent people and more
than anything they insist on preserving their national independence
and sovereignty. At various times throughout history Cuba was
dominated by the Spanish, the English or the Americans and since
the Cuban Revolution in 1959 Cubans have had self-determination
for the first time in history. Obviously, Cubans avowed political
enemy is the US goverment, but I have heard numerous people
say that they have nothing against the American people, their
issues are with the US government, and in particular the embargo
and the travel restrictions for Cubans living in the US. Apparently,
relatives of Cuban families are now only allowed to travel to
Cuba once every 3 years, so the policites were tightened significantly
by the US government in recent times.
The results of the embargo and the economic shortages are visible
everywhere, buildings are crumbling, there is not enough construction
material, hospitals are lacking in equipment, and personal income
is extremely low (eg. between $ 8 and $20 a month...). As a
result, everybody is forced to open a little side business.
During the last few days I have heard that it is extremely common
in Cuba to steal resources from the State since all economic
activity including retail is nationalized.
People steal cosmetics, hygience products, cement, wood, computers,
cigars, everything that is not absolutely nailed down. Then
they sell the products privately under the table. It is strangely
ironic that in a Communist country, everybody has turned into
an entrepreneur... The phrase that I have heard is ¨hay que
inventar¨, you have to invent things - be creative in order
to survive.
This mentality manifests itself in some very obvious ways: yesterday
Pedro and I tried to get into the Partagas Tobacco Factory since
I wanted to go on a tour. The security guard told us that an
employee had died and that therefore the factory was closed.
Then, under his breath, he asked us if we wanted to buy a box
of cigars. How amazing: the security guard protecting the tobacco
factory is selling (stolen) cigars on the black market.
Partagas Tobacco Factory.
Also, just outside the Capitol building, Havana´s
most astounding and most well-known architectural jewel, there
is a beautiful park with tropical flowers, shadowy trees and
benches. And almost all the benches are missing their wooden
slats, on the seat, the backrest or both. And these benches
are located right outside Cuba´s most famous building! Today
I received the explanation that quality wood is extremely difficult
to get and that people simply help themselves.....
The number and types of private entrepreneurial schemes is too
large to mention. Only a few are legal, for example the paladares
(private restaurants in private homes), the casas particulares
(bed and breakfasts) as well as various types of private taxis.
But apart from this small number of officially permitted private
enterprises, virtually everybody in this country has turned
into an entrepreneur. Any person that owns a car, and car ownership
is extremely restricted here, uses it to give a lift to people,
picks up passengers at a street corner and drops them off 20
minutes later in return for 10 Pesos, all money made under the
table.
Old vintage cars are everywhere.
All these things are strangely ironic to me, since Cuba officially
is a Communist country, where private property and private enterprise
is all but forbidden, but in order to survive the entire population
has turned into an army of entrepreneurs.
On the other hand, Cuba has achieved tremendous accomplishments,
for a small, third-world Carribean country. Close to 100% of
Cuba´s population is literate, public education is available
to everybody. Black people and women in particular have benefited
from the effects of the revoluation. The health care and education
system are among the most developed systems in the 3rd world,
and Cuba´s life expectancy and infant mortality rates are among
the best of the world. In addition, post-revolutionary Cuba
has also dedicated itself to promoting sport and athelticism
and today Cuba excels in many different sports (track and field,
baseball,
basketball, volleyball, fencing and others) on an international
level.
Other alternative transport systems in Havana.
So all in all, the Cuban
Revolution has had some astoundingly positive effects on
the country, despite all the hardships that people still experience.
However, it seems that there is a little bit of optimism in
the air, since Cuba signed trade agreements with Venezuela,
various other Latin American countries and China. And of course
great hope is placed in Cuba´s tourism
industry.
However, on the other hand, you have to keep in mind that Cuba
is still a dictatorship, a totalitarian regime and human rights
and personal freedoms are restricted here. There is a palpable
paranoia here among people in that they are afraid of publicly
criticizing the regime. And organizations like the CDR, the
Comite de la Defensa de la Revolution, often act as watchdogs
and informers on the people. Travel is extremely restricted,
or impossible, and there are no official methods of criticizing
the government.
This short little bit of time has been great in giving me an
insight into Cuban
culture, politics and economics, and my classes at the university
are great since my colleagues also add to a very interesting
discussion. We discuss and compare the Scandinavian, Cuban and
Canadian health systems, political systems, mass media and economic
policies and all this has truly been an eye-opening experience.
Interesting and useful books about Cuba:
Related Articles:
"My
Post-Cuba Reflections: Appreciation and Balance"
"Cuba is
Calling - Why I selected Cuba as my language study destination"
Hello from Cuba (1) - First
Impressions"
"Hello from Cuba (2) - Rain
in Vinales"
"Hello from Cuba (3) - Hiking
Vinales and Exploring Nature"
"Hello from Cuba (4) - Bureaucracy
Galore - The University of Havana"
"Hello from Cuba (5) - Another
Mind-Twisting Experience"
"Hello from Cuba (6) - The Student
Experience and Political Insights"
"Hello from Cuba (7) - Fun and
Recreation"
"Hello from Cuba (8) - Bicycle
Rides, Camellos and Cannon Shots"
"Hello from Cuba (9) - Havana
Neighbourhoods"
"Hello from Cuba (10) - A Country
Excursion"
"Hello from Cuba (11) - Inside
a Cuban Home"
"Hello from Cuba (12) - Contrasts
and Contradictions"
"Hello from Cuba (13) - Exploring
Downtown Havana"
"Hello from Cuba (14) - Field
Trips and Interviews"
"Hello from Cuba (15) - Getting
ready to say 'Goodbye, Havana'..."
"Hello from Cuba (16) - The
final day"