October
3, 2006
Hello from Nova Scotia: Exploring Annapolis
Royal
Still thinking about what I learned about the fate of the Acadians
after my visit to the Grand Pré National
Historic Site, I got into the car and started driving westwards
through the fertile Annapolis Valley, an area referred to as the
“Breadbasket of Nova Scotia”. The gentle North and South
Mountain Ranges enclose this agricultural land of orchards and vineyards.
The Bay of Fundy is located just on the other side of the northern
range. A pleasant drive took me along the Evangeline Trail that
runs on the northern shoreline of South West Nova Scotia.
Fort Anne in Annapolis Royal
My destination was Annapolis
Royal, a town with more than 400 years of history, located at
the mouth of the Annapolis River. Annapolis Royal, founded in 1605,
originally was called Port-Royal by the Acadian settlers, but after
the territory changed hands to the British in 1713 it was renamed
in honour of England’s Queen Anne. The word “polis”,
Greek for “town”, was added to the Queen's name, and
the original French word “Royal” was retained. A sign
of turbulent times, ownership of this area went back and forth seven
times between the English and the French. The town was settled two
years before Jamestown, Virginia, three years before the founding
of Quebec, and fifteen years before the Pilgrims landed at Plymouth
Massachusetts.
View from Fort Anne across the Annapolis River
Together with today’s Port-Royal across the river, it is
the oldest continuous European settlement in North America, north
of St. Augustine, Florida. Annapolis Royal is one of five Cultural
Capitals of Canada and was also recently selected as “The
World’s Most Livable Small Community” in an international
competition endorsed by the United Nations. To enter the town I
drove across the causeway that houses the Annapolis Royal Tidal
Power Generating Plant and drove slowly into one of the most historic
and picturesque towns in Canada.
Annapolis Royal lighthouse
Annapolis Royal used to be the capital of Nova Scotia from 1710
until 1749 when Halifax became the capital of the province. Its
collection of 135 Municipal Heritage Properties makes it the largest
National Historic District in Canada. The town is a popular tourist
destination and boasts numerous bed and breakfasts, restaurants,
cafes, galleries and retail stores located in heritage properties.
Quaint shopping opportunities in Port Royal
Fort Anne, the main attraction in the heart of the town, was built
by the British to protect the mouth of the Annapolis River and this
was my first stop. I went into the visitor’s office at Fort
Anne and was greeted by Alan Melanson, a 9th generation Acadian
and a senior guide at this Parks Canada property. When I told him
who I was looking for, he mentioned that my destination was actually
the Port-Royal National Historic Site which was located on the other
side of the river. I had obviously gotten the names Annapolis Royal,
Fort Anne and Port-Royal confused and had showed up at the wrong
place for my guided tour. That wasn’t a problem, though, since
Alan indicated that his twin brother, Wayne Melanson, is a senior
guide at Port-Royal and he would simply make a phone call to the
other location to advise his twin brother of my arrival later this
afternoon.
The De Dons Monument overlooks the Annapolis River
I would have a chance to meet Alan again later tonight to participate
in the famous Annapolis Royal Candlelight Graveyard Tour which Alan
would lead at about 9 pm this evening. So with my appointment set
at Port-Royal for later this afternoon, I decided to park the car
and explore the town on foot. I walked down Lower St. George Street
past the Town Hall, the Lighthouse which dates back to 1889 and
heritage buildings such as the Sinclair Inn Museum – a National
Historic Site, the Adams-Ritchie House and the Old Post Office.
Timeout for a late lunch at the Streetscape Café
I came back up through Church Street and admired all the colourful
wooden clapboard houses. One thing about Nova Scotia architecture
is the decorative paint trim work that always stands out as a special
touch. Since my busy travel schedule had so far kept me from having
lunch, I stopped off at the Streetscape Café, a cozy local
place where I had a delicious vegetable puree soup, followed by
some vanilla biscotti. It was the perfect place to read up on the
local brochures and tourist information I had picked up. Appropriately
strengthened I was ready to continue my discoveries of Annapolis
Royal.
The historic Court House
Just a few steps up the street right in front of Fort Anne is the
Garrison Graveyard which was originally a French Catholic Graveyard
from 1636 to 1710 and is the last resting place of about 2000 early
residents. Right across from Fort Anne and the Graveyard was my
bed and breakfast for the night, the Garrison
House, which I would have a chance to explore a little later
this afternoon after my visit to the Port-Royal
Historic Site. I continued my stroll past Fort Anne on Upper
St. George Street towards the Court House. Built in 1837, it is
the oldest court house in the province still in use. An enormous
old French willow tree at the Court House lane used to serve as
the whipping tree where minor crimes were punished in public.
The Garrison Graveyard with Fort Anne in the background
Just a few steps further on Upper St. George Street are the Annapolis
Royal Historic Gardens – a full ten acres of horticultural
beauty that just celebrated their 25th anniversary. I entered the
gardens through the well-stocked gift shop and started my explorations
of various display gardens, dykes and marshland areas. A stunning
Victorian garden illustrates the horticultural styles of days past.
An Acadian House (“la Maison Acadienne”) is also located
on the property and showcases tools and utensils used by the early
French settlers. Although it was already early October, many of
the garden areas still provided colourful displays of flowers and
during the summer the Historic Gardens also feature a café
with hot and cold refreshments.
Arbor at the Historic Gardens
My brief walking tour through Annapolis
Royal had given me a great introduction to a beautiful and very
historic town and I was ready to discover even more history at the
Port-Royal National Historic Site.
Another view of the beautiful Historic Gardens
Useful books about travel to Nova Scotia:
Related articles:
My five whirlwind days in Nova Scotia
Acadian
history at the Grand Pré National Historic Site
400 years of history at Annapolis
Royal
Port-Royal, a French habitation from 1605
Dinner at the Garrison House
in Annapolis Royal
The Annapolis Royal
Graveyard Tour
The Garrison House Bed and Breakfast
Exploring the Evangeline Trail from
Annapolis Royal to Yarmouth
Learning about Mi'kmaq heritage at the
Bear River First Nation Heritage and Cultural Center
Victorian heritage in Yarmouth
The MacKinnon-Cann Inn: Where Home
and Garden Television meets the Travel Channel
Yarmouth explained - the Yarmouth
County Museum
My car is in the ditch in Chebogue
River
The Lighthouse Trail from Yarmouth
to Shelburne
The Lighthouse Trail from Shelburne
to Lunenburg
The Town of Lunenburg - a UNESCO World Heritage
Site
An interview with the owners of the
Lunenburg Inn
The Lighthouse Trail from Lunenburg to
Halifax via Mahone Bay and Peggy's Cove
Arrival in Halifax and a stunning
musical performance - DRUM!
A Halifax city tour, the city's
connection to the Titantic and the 1917 Halifax Explosion
Exploring the Halifax Harbourwalk and
Pier 21 - Canada's immigration museum
A ferry trip to Dartmouth and saying
goodbye to Halifax
An interview with Pier 21 -
Canada's immigration museum
Helpful links for travel to Nova Scotia:
Tourism
Nova Scotia
Destination
South West Nova Scotia
Halifax Tourism
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